I’d like to wish you all a very happy new year! I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around the fact that it’s 2020; it’s making me feel old, quite frankly.
I had a lovely Giftmas with my in-laws in Florida. If you follow me on Instagram, you will have seen pictures from a birding and alligator spotting walk in a nature preserve, as well as pics of me with some birds of prey. My in-laws surprised us with a ‘mystery trip’ that involved 3 hours with a master falconer!
Terry is an incredible educator with a wicked sense of humour and a lifetime of experience that he generously shares. He’s been involved in falconry for about 20 years and this guy knows his stuff. He gave us a run down of falconry history and how one might get started in this fascinating sport/hobby. He personally mentors people in his area and he is clearly passionate about helping those who are interested in the hobby for all the right reasons. If you just want a cool pet, falconry is not for you! There is so much involved from permits to training to caring for the birds. I always knew there was a lot to it but holy crap there is so much more than I expected!
We were taught how to safely hold the birds and were even able to fly a harris hawk. I’m not sure I’ll ever forget this experience, honestly. I’ve always been interested in birds of prey, especially since moving to the US where they’re a lot more common.
Definitely recommend checking him out if you live near Orlando! You can find his Facebook page with contact information here.
For everyone else, you might have a local falconry group near you, if you’re interested in learning more.
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Episode 11 of the podcast is up, and can be found on my Podbean page.
Episode 11: All about Quail!
Sources:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/quail-breeds-and-how-to-pick-the-right-bird-for-you.67350/
Urban Quail-keeping, Karen J, Puddephatt
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Fun fact: a group of quail is called a ‘covey’.
Let’s start with available quail species! There seem to be 3 primary species available in the US: Bobwhite, King, and Coturnix.
1/ Bobwhite quail (aka Northern Bobwhite, Virginia quail)
Latin name: Colinus Virginianus.
Member of the ‘new world quail’ group (Odontophoridae)
Ground-dwelling bird, native to Canada, USA, Mexico, and the Caribbean
Received its name due to its unique vocalization: ‘bob-WHITE’ or ‘bob-bob-WHITE’
Bobwhites are moderately sized quail with a wingspan between 9-15 inches, and weigh between 4-6 ounces as adults. This species is sexually dimorphic. Males have a white throat and brow stripe bordered by black. Females have a buff (or tan) throat and brow without the black border.
The average lifespan in the wild is a rather sad 6 months but, under ideal conditions, Bobwhites can live about 5 years.
Their diet consists of a variety of weeds, seeds, grasses, and insects. In captivity, Bobwhites do well on a gamebird feed (usually crumble), small seed mix, fresh greens, and a variety of insects (mealworms, crickets, etc), supplemented with calcium (especially important for laying hens).
The Bobwhite quail appears to do best in mated pairs during the primary breeding seasons throughout Spring and Summer. In the cooler months, larger groups can be kept as much of the territorial behaviour will subside during this time. This means that if you intend to keep many pairs in a large aviary, you will need to separate the mated pairs for half the year to avoid fighting and injury. Some articles I read stated that you can keep breeding trios (1 male to 2 hens) but others recommend against this. YMMV.
The Bobwhite matures more slowly than many other quail species. They reach sexual maturity at 6 months and breed readily, with the hens laying an egg a day. Bobwhites are sometimes kept as meat birds but are more popular as pets and egg producers, in part due to how long it takes them to reach slaughter weight.
So it seems like the Bobwhite would be a good quail for you if you’re looking for a species that can be kept in pairs, used for egg production, and/or as an interesting pet.
If you live in the US and have ever hunted quail, or read anything on the subject, the Bobwhite (or one of it’s 21 subspecies) is likely the quail being hunted. Since 1966, wild populations have been declining in the US, and there are some groups working on breeding and releasing birds in an attempt to boost these wild populations. The Bobwhite quail is listed as a ‘near threatened species’ by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. Habitat loss and habitat degradation appear to be the primary cause of population decline.
Since the bobwhite quail is both a native bird and on the decline, many states require that anyone who wants to keep and/or breed Bobwhite quails need a permit to do so legally. So if you feel like the Bobwhite is the bird for you, please check with your local Fish & Wildlife representative. From what I have been able to ascertain, permits are relatively inexpensive, averaging between $25-40 per year.
2/ King Quail
AKA the blue breasted quail, Asian blue quail, Chinese painted quail, and Chung-chi. Sometimes referred to as button quail, which is not to be confused with buttonquail (or hemipodes), which is not even a member of the same genus, and actually one of a few species of ground dwelling birds in the family Turnicidae.
Latin name: Excalfactoria chinensis/Coturnix Chinensis
Species of Old World quail in family Phasianidae
Native populations spread across Southeastern Asia to Australia, Melanesia, Micronesia, and Polynesia.
Smallest of the ‘true quail’ species, weighing about 1.4oz.
Appearance: attractive little bird with the males being brighter in general, ranging in colour from brown, blue, silver, maroon, and almost black. The females are similar in appearance but less showy and don’t possess blue feathers. They have bright orange to yellow feet.
Lifespan: up to 13 years in captivity but average is 3-6. Wild birds rarely live past 1.5 years.
The King quail is quite popular in the pet trade due to its attractive plumage, small size, and ease of keeping. They can be kept in breeding pairs or in larger groups, although enclosure size must increase to accommodate, and it’s recommended to keep groups in flight cages/aviaries so the birds can get away from each other. Unlike other species of quail, it is not recommended to keep these birds on wire floors. You’re most likely to find them kept in pairs within the US as their small size makes them sensitive to the cold, meaning they should be kept inside year round, unless you live far enough South that you have consistently mild winters. This naturally limits how many birds one can keep, and sticking to a male/female pair also helps reduce the risk of fighting among adult birds.
Accounts differ on whether these birds can be made hand-tame. Some keepers have found that gentle hand feeding from a young age can make these birds comfortable with your presence, whereas other keepers list them as especially flighty. Most agree that regular handling of this species is not recommended due to their small size, making them quite delicate.
If you want a beautiful, relatively long lived quail that can be kept inside, this might be the bird for you.
3/ Coturnix Quail
The most common quail found in the US pet and meat trade.
Coturnix is the Latin name for this genus, which consists of 6 current species, and 2 extinct species.
Extinct:
Canary Island Quail (Coturnix gomerae)
New Zealand quail (Coturnix novaezelandiae)
Current:
Rain or Black-breasted quail (Coturnix coromandelica)
Harlequin Quail (Coturnix delegorguel)
Common or European quail (Coturnix coturnix)
Japanese (Coturnix japonica)
Stubble (Coturnix pectoralis)
Brown (aka swamp quail, silver quail, Tasmanian quail) (Coturnix ypsilophora)
The above range from Asia, Africa, Europe, Australia, and beyond. All are members of the family Phasianidae.
Of these, the Japanese quail is the most readily available for purchase in the US, and hugely popular as both a pet, egg, and meat bird. This quail is sometimes referred to simply as a ‘coturnix quail’, which can be a little confusing.
According to Wikipedia: “The Japanese quail has played an active role in the lives of humanity since the 12th century, and continues to play major roles in industry and scientific research.”
There are a few breeds of Japanese quail that you might come across. These include the Texas A&M, English white, Italian, Spanish, Jumbo Japanese, British Range, Tuxedo, Fawn.
Various breeds will vary in appearance but the common Japanese quail is tawny brown with speckled plumage. They’re sexually dimorphic with the males being smaller than the females. Their weight varies between 4-6 ounces on average, with Jumbo Japanese quails occasionally reaching a whopping 1lb (although usually 13-14 ounces).
Most of the information I found on quail care is in reference to the Coturnix quails so please bear that in mind. A lot of it does apply to Bobwhites and King quail but I’d definitely recommend looking around for specific care guides for these if you’re leaning towards keeping them.
Egg Production:
Prolific egg layers that take up less space than chickens
1 egg per day
Start laying at 35-45 days old (vs 18-22 weeks in chickens)
Approximately 300 eggs per year
Tend to lay in the afternoon/evening (and have an egg song!)
Will lay most eggs up to the age of 9-12 months before decline begins
Approx 5 quail eggs equals 1 medium chicken egg
13 quail will lay the equivalent of a dozen chicken eggs per week
Taste is similar to that of a chicken egg
In recipes, match weight to weight
Egg shells: cream with brown speckles, inner shell is a pale blue (some breeds bred for coloured eggs now, such as we see with Easter Eggers)
Ice cube trays are the perfect size for collecting and storing quail eggs
As with chickens, oddly sized or deformed eggs can indicate a health issue, or could be a normal process of a young or old layer so monitor carefully.
Quail eggs can be cracked the same way as with a chicken egg; by tapping lightly against a hard surface, using a knife to tap the middle of the egg, or with special ‘quail scissors’.
Quail Characteristics:
Shy and retiring/flighty but also curious and charming
Flee upwards when startled with great speed, and are escape artists (both need to be considered when planning enclosures)
Can be hand tamed but should not be expected and requires consistent time and effort
Not a ‘cuddle’ pet
Hold quail by placing your hand gently over their back with your index and middle finger around their neck. Use the other hand to carefully scoop them up. If they fight or struggle, you can turn them carefully onto their back, which disorients them, but do not hold them this way for a prolonged period.
Never grab them by the legs as you risk breaking them
Be careful with their ribs/chests as they’re delicate
Quail will wiggle and fight so be mindful that you don’t grip them too tightly in response
Hand feeding from a young age can help tame them but it must be done consistently, daily being best. High value treats like mealworms work best. Offer treats on an open palm.
Always remain calm and soft spoken around your quail, and avoid eye contact if they become nervous.
Quail are quieter than chickens and, although the males do crow, it is not as disruptive as a rooster, making them suitable for people with close neighbours.
Feeding:
Commercial feed is available for quail but double check the nutrients and protein content
Do NOT offer chicken feed
Recommended protein in food for egg layer chicks, age 0-6 weeks, is 24% protein, dropping to 20% after 6 weeks.
For meat birds, protein should be 24% until 6 weeks, dropping to 18%.
A quail’s diet should primarily consist of grains and seeds but healthy snacks like greens, dandelion leaves, and live or dried grubs are recommended and provide enrichment.
Small grit is needed for the life of your quail, much as with chickens, but grit designed for adult chickens is far too large. Look for grit sized for chicks.
Dried cuttlebone (found at the pet store in the bird and/or reptile section) is a great way for quail to keep their beaks trimmed while also offered additional calcium.
Acquiring Quail:
Options are purchasing fertile eggs or chicks
For eggs, you need a good incubator and patience
Fully automated incubators will maintain correct temperature and humidity, and will also turn the eggs for you.
Eggs need to be turned 3-5 times a day for 14 days, and one should wear gloves if manually turning them to prevent the transmission of bacteria from our skin to the delicate eggs.
If you have eggs shipped to you, check them for signs of damage and throw those ones away.
Let the eggs rest for 24 hrs at room temperature before placing in incubator. During this period, run your incubator to make sure it is working appropriately.
Incubation temperature should be 37.5C/99.5F
Humidity: 45%
Place eggs in the incubator blunt side up (this end contains the air sac that allows the chick to breath)
Set incubation for 18 days
Usually around day 15, the chicks will start to emerge. When you see pipping, increase the humidity to 75%, and reduce the heat to 37C/98.6F
Try not to remove chicks while others are still pipping as a sudden decrease in humidity can make it hard or even impossible for chicks to hatch, leading to fatalities,
Once chicks are dry and fluffy, you can remove them to a brooder.
Brooder:
As with chickens, make sure to place your brooder in a warm and dry area, free from draughts.
The brooder can be any kind of large container such as a metal livestock trough, XL plastic storage bin, or handmade wooden planter/box.
Just as with chickens, use a heat source to keep brooder warm and gradually cool it down over time as the chicks get bigger and more able to maintain their body heat.
For the first 24hrs, keep your quail chicks at 37C/98.6F.
Week 1, set heat to 35C/95F
Week 2: 30C/86F
Week 3: 25C/77F
Week 4: 20C/68F
Week 5: adjust to adult enclosure conditions
Week 6: move to adult enclosure
Top features of a brooder:
Heat source
Thermometer
Vented lid/cover
Blanket to cover part of lid, if needed to increase heat/humidity
Non-slip matting to prevent leg slipping and injury
Bedding material: paper towels then sawdust/flakes
Chick safe waterer (bowl with marbles/pebbles; special premade ones, etc)
Finely ground quail food.
Housing/Enclosures:
1/ Hutches
These are quite popular because they’re relatively small and can be placed in a garage, on your patio, and even in your home.
Rabbit hutches can be modified to be suitable for quail by letting in more light.
I’m not a huge fan of hutches as an option as I prefer more space for birds. However, these are excellent for those looking to house many breeding pairs and/or raise birds for meat as they allow easier capture of the birds, and assurance of which female is mating with which male.
Minimum space requirement is 1.5 square feet per bird
You can find recommendations online for much smaller accommodations that allow just enough room for the birds to stand and move around somewhat. This is cruel, IMO.
A height of 12-18 inches should prevent injuries from quail flying upwards when startled. As a general rule, you either want a ceiling low enough that not enough momentum has been gained to hurt the bird, or a ceiling so high that they do not run the risk of hitting into it at all or with any real force.
Raise hutches up to help avoid predators.
Wire floors are often recommended but one must be mindful that the wire is the correct size and therefore does not damage the quail’s delicate toes/feet.
A floor with substrate allows natural behaviours such as digging, and is my preference.
If you do choose wire flooring to assist with clean up/convenience, please consider adding a good sized dust bath so the quail can dig and bathe as they would on a natural substrate. It’s great enrichment!
Runs/aviaries:
My personal choice!
Consider the height as stated above; needs to be high enough that the quail do not accidentally harm themselves when they fly up. Quail have broken their own necks this way so this step is not to be overlooked.
Avoid damp conditions
Provide a cover
Be mindful of wind as quail cannot cope with the kind of conditions chickens can
Ideal temp for quail is between 16C/61F to 23C/73F with 30/180% humidity
This is not to say one can’t keep them outside if your area doesn’t meet these conditons but you will need to monitor their habitat somewhat to compensate.
More birds will be able to generate more heat so a large flock of 20 quail might be suitable (but more birds need a lot more space to avoid fighting)
Provide a heat source such as a lamp or panel heater
Place enclosure so that it faces East, maximizing the amount of sun it receives. Quail love sunshine!
You can add lighting in winter to keep egg production going. Otherwise, hens will take about 3 months off during this time.
For substrate, you can use wood shavings, sand, soil, even smooth gravel/pebbles
Add plenty of hiding places as it allows the birds to feel safe. They’re also ground nesters and so need a suitable, safe place to lay their eggs.
Adding plants, shrubs, branches, and roosts provides additional overhead shelter, enrichment, and a place for birds to rest during the day. Although quail are ground dwelling birds who will sleep on the ground, they do enjoy perching during the day, especially in the sunshine.
Health:
Like with chickens, there are a few common problems one might encounter
Prolapsed vent: a risk for egg layers in general. Can try to repair at home as you would with a chicken but vet care might be needed. Reoccurence is very likely and culling might be an option.
Toeballing: caused when a hardened ball of various materials/substrate becomes encrusted on the toes and feet, making walking difficult and painful. Soak feet in tepid water with a mild soap or Epson salts to remove.
Bumblefoot: abscess caused by small wound in foot. Treatment same as in chickens. Antibiotics might be required.
Mites/lice: can treat with DE or chemical sprays but check dosage carefully for the latter.
Worms: intestinal, usually picked up from soil or live insects. Check dosing directions on wormer.
Coccidiosis: microscopic parasite that colonizes the intestines. Spreads quickly through fecal matter and can decimate a flock. Adults can be carriers without showing symptoms. Regular cleaning of enclosures can help prevent the spread but antibiotics from vet will be needed once you have it. Symptoms include lethargy, ruffled feathers, bloody or greenish diarrhea, weight loss, and lack of appetite.
Ulcerative Enteritis (aka quail disease): bacterial infection that causes ulcers in the small intestine, preventing absorbtion of nutrients and leading to rapid weightloss. Spreads extremely fast and can be deadly. Antibiotics from vet will be needed. Look for greenish diarrhea, lethargy, and weakened birds.
Practice good biosecurity (such as quaranting new birds) and hygeine to prevent infection and spreading.
Cuts/blood: quail are attracted to the colour red like chickens so always remove an injured bird until healed, and then carefully reintroduce. Pecking can be a sign of overcrowding so be sure your covey has enough space and places to hide.
Breeding:
Recommended ratio for success includes pairs, trios, or 1 male to 5-6 females (a harem!)
Sexing: compare vents (males will have a red and domed vent), compare behaviour (males crow!), and compare their plumage (males develop a reddish-brown chest whereas females have cream chests with brown speckles/spots).
Look for foam balls on the floor of the enclosure. A sexually mature male will produce these odd little globules that consist of various proteins and enzymes (not semen as sometimes erroneously stated). During mating, a male places this foam ball into the females cloaca after he ejaculates.
You can allow your birds to raise their own chicks if you wish but quail are not known for being broody so you will have better luck if you remove the fertile eggs to be incubated inside.
Quails for meat:
Usually the surplus males make it to our dinner table, especially considering the fact that adult males rarely cohabitate peacefully.
They are mature at 6-8 weeks old
There’s a saying: “when they start to crow, it’s time to go!”
When raising males for meat, be careful that they are not kept for too long; they will begin to chase each other and fight as they approach sexual maturity. Offering plenty of hiding places and keeping them in subdued lighting (but not darkness) can help decrease this behaviour.
Popular meat breeds include the Texas A&M and Jumbo Coturnix
When selecting birds for the table, look for healthy quail with no defects that tend towards the higher weight/size ranges to yield more meat.
When to cull? Anytime after 6 weeks but be mindful that birds become tougher with age and it is said that culling after 8 months gives you almost inedible meat that is good only for soup stock or dog food.
If you intend to sell your meat, always check with your local authority for information on how to legally do so.
Culling:
Primary methods are the same as with chickens: cervical dislocation/neck break, and removing the head entirely (using sharp scissors or shears)
After death, the body will jerk and twitch, sometimes quite a lot, so maintain a firm grip on the bird
Be prepared to drain the blood; there’s more than you might anticipate so have a large bucket/container ready
Always cull birds out of sight and downwind of living quail!
Watch DIY videos of the process or shadow a local keeper/butcher to learn more about the culling process and to gain confidence.
If you keep quail as your pets and find that you cannot bring yourself to cull them yourself, you can always take them to your vet for a humane death.
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Thanks for reading/listening! And thank you for being patient with me over the holiday season. I'll be back in 2 weeks with something new to discuss with you all. Right now, I'm leaning towards either a brief rundown of falconry throughout history, or top bar beehives. So watch this space!
Feel free to leave a comment, or drop me a line at homesteadhensandhoney@gmail.com. You can also find me over on Instagram, Twitter, and Tumblr.
As always, remember to hug your hens, and then wash your hands. Take care!
