New episode of the podcast is up, and can be found over on Podbean (or wherever you listen to podcasts!).
This is part 2 of my 3 part series on edible gardens. This week, I cover even more herbs, lettuce/salad greens, leafy greens, and parsnips.
Sources/references:
The Bountiful Container, Rose Marie Nichols McGee & Maggie Stucky
100 Plants to Feed the Bees, The Xerces Society (https://xerces.org/)
Vegetables Love Flowers, Lisa Marie Ziegler
Backyard Harvest, Jo Whittingham
Grubbly Farms (high calcium chicken treats)
CATNIP
Not so much a human edible (although some people drink it is a tea; it can cause digestive distress) but cats love it, and it’s a great pollinator plant so I’m including it.
Perennial and annual
Full sun
Harvest/bloom season: Spring through Summer
Up to 2ft in height
Seeds or transplants
Seeds
Tough outer casing that must be stratified (slightly damaged) to allow growth
Recommended to place seeds in freezer overnight then put in water for 24hrs to break down tough outer coating
Start indoors or seed directly outside
Transplants
Nothing special required!
Allow a space of 20 inches between each plant/seedling
Success with:
Catnip prefers well drained soil (don’t overwater) and full sun
Will tolerate partial sun and a mix of soil types; so overall a hardy plant
Moderately resilient to hot and cold weather but will be more prolific in fertile, damp soils
Too much fertilizer can actually decrease the potency of the flowers (including their scent) so fertilize lightly at planting and then monitor through the bloom season; only refeed if the plant seems to be ailing.
Water carefully; if you have rain, don’t water. Overwatering can kill catnip quickly.
Catnip can be invasive in some areas as it readily seeds. Avoid this by removing flowers before they fully seed.
Pollinators!
Attracts a number of pollinator species but primarily visited by bumble bees and honey bees.
Cats and catnips; why do they like it?
Not all cats respond to catnip.
The sensitivity to catnip is genetic, and one third to one half of cats are completely unaffected
It is the chemical nepetalactone that attracts cats with the genetic predisposition, including wild felines such as tigers!
Cats affected will roll, chew, rub, and play with all parts of the plant
Cats can become playful, sleepy, or even anxious and aggressive when on the ‘nip
Effects usually last 5-15 minutes
Safe for cats to eat but might upset their tummies if over consumed
Can be given fresh or dry, though fresh is more potent
CORIANDER/CILANTRO
Annual
Native to Asia and N.Africa
Full sun to partial shade
Harvest: summer
Max height: 3ft
Min soil depth: 10in
Coriander is popular in many cuisines around the world, although some people find it tastes soapy. Much like how genes effect whether cats are effected by catnip, it is a gene that makes some people perceive the aldehydes in coriander as soapy.
Seeds
Required as cilantro does not transplant well
Start inside, 4-6 weeks before last Spring frost date
Or direct sow 1-2 weeks before last Spring frost date
Don’t need to thin seedlings much due to the short growing season and lifespan of cilantro
Success with:
Don’t over water
Favours cooler weather/partial shade
Prone to bolt if given too much sun
Some varieties (such as ‘Santo’) have been created to be somewhat bolt resistant
Succession plant to extend your harvest
Harvest when plant is about 6 inches tall and leaves are young/fresh
If plant does bolt, let it flower; not only are the flowers good for bees but they are also edible! Collect seed from flower for next season.
Pollinators!
Flowers are white or pink, bloom for long periods, and produce a bounty of nectar; all making this an appealing plant for pollinators
Visitors include: honey bees, paper wasps, sweat bees, aphid-eating syrphid flies, and many beneficial wasp species.
LAVENDER
Perennial
18in - 4ft tall, 1-2ft wide
Transplants recommended
Harvest: summer
Full sun
Min soil: 8in
Suitable for containers; look for compact varieties
Smallish, shrubby plant with long, thin grey-green leaves and spires of tiny flowers
All parts of the plant are fragrant!
Flower colours: purple, pastel pink, white
Fully opened flowers look like tiny orchids
Unopened flowers have the most intense fragrance
Some varieties have especially long bloom periods, and some have a second bloom late in the season
Seeds
Difficult to succeed with
Cultivars don’t always stay true from seed so you can end up with a plant you didn’t plan for (or want)
Seeds take a month or more to germinate and have a low survival rate
Transplants
Look for small, compact plants; not too tall or woody
Cuttings work very well; use rooting powder and put in moist, sandy potting mix
Start cuttings indoors; within a few weeks, they will have rooted and are then safe to move outside (or into their permanent container)
Success with:
Sunshine!
Alkaline soil, slightly dry
Lavender does not like humidity or too much watering
Can survive winter but might need some cover in very cold areas (containers must be covered or bring indoors)
Keep it pruned! Snip the tops to encourage bushier growth; prune in very early Spring (when worst of the cold is over); and again in Summer when peak bloom is over
Harvesting
Leaves can be taken at anytime
Flowers are best just before they open
Harvest early in the day when the oil of the plant is at its peak
Leaves and flowers can be dried; store in airtight containers to preserve long term
Pollinators!
Lavender has long been associated with honey bees in Europe, especially France
Sugar concentration of nectar recorded between 14-67%
Lavender honey is golden and readily granulates into small crystals “creating a smooth, butterlike texture” (100 Flowers to feed the bees, xerces society)
Recommended species: basically all of them! But particularly English Lavender (considered the most fragrant) and French lavender
Visitors include: honey bees, mason bees, small carpenter bees, bumble bees, and both native and non-native wool carder bees.
MINT
Perennial
Varies drastically in size (very small to as high as 2ft)
Transplants recommended
Harvest: Spring through Fall
Full sun to partial shade
Min soil: 6-8in
Very versatile! Used in many cosmetics, food, drinks, medicines, even toothpaste.
So many varieties! Lavender mint, chocolate mint, lemon balm, etc
Hardy perennials that spread via underground stems
Root all along the length of the stem and send up new growth
In winter, plants die back to ground but are still alive
Many will also self-sow if allowed to flower
Can be invasive; often recommended to keep in containers or plant in pots and put those into ground
Seeds
Start indoors, 8-10 weeks before last Spring frost date
Sow 1/4in deep
Keep soil moist and warm (70F)
Seedlings emerge within 7-14 days
Transplants
Recommended
Look for small, bushy, vibrant green plants
For use in containers; the roots can take over and harm other plants so recommended to use one container for mint alone (try an assortment of different varieties for an attractive and fragrant planter)
Success with:
Start plants in Spring with a well balanced fertilizer, and feed again mid-summer
Water evenly
Mint can get threadbare over time so don’t be afraid to cut it back
Some varieties are less winter hardy so check what you have and consider bringing it in to overwinter
Harvesting
Pick as needed/wanted!
Pinching off the tips will encourage side/bushy growth
For drying, best to pick before the plant flowers
Mint flowers can be dried too but are more fragrant before they have fully bloomed
Pollinators!
When allowed to flower, mint is a wonderful source of nectar for pollinators!
Wild field mint (mentha arvensis) is one of the few native US species and therefore especially beneficial for native pollinators
Honey is amber in colour and granulates easy to very small crystals
Visitors: honey bees, bumble bees, many different beneficial wasp and fly species, and countless native bees!
OREGANO
Perennial
8-12in tall and wide!
Transplants recommended
Harvest: Summer into Fall
Full sun
Min soil: 8in
A member of the mint family!
Looks and tastes good
Some varieties have particularly colourful leaves that add a splash of colour to your garden
Excellent option for containers
Seeds
Can be tricky to succeed with
Oregano hybridizes readily so it’s not always clear what will grow from your harvested seeds (and some hybrids produce sterile seeds)
Transplants
Start in Spring when night temps are mild
Look for small plants as oregano is a rapid grower
Cuttings are also a good option especially if started indoors
Success with:
Prefer dry, mild climates and alkaline soil
Dislikes cool and rainy weather
Bring in for winter or mulch heavily before frost
Don’t over water or let containers sit in standing water
Prune early in the season for established plants to encourage new growth
Pests
Spider mites and aphids can be a problem
BUT usually oregano has to already be ailing before pests move in
Harvesting
As often as you want! Harvesting does not stunt oregano growth
The more you snip, the bushier it grows!
Leaves are fragrant and delicious dry or fresh
Please note: some oregano varieties are ornamental but still edible (although the flavour is less intense)
Pollinators!
Oregano nectar has some of the highest documented sugar concentration: up to 76%
Oregano honey is famous in Greece
Visitors: many different bee species, including honey bees and bumble bees
ROSEMARY
Perennial
1-2ft tall
Transplants recommended
Harvest: summer
Full sun
Min soil: 8in
Beautiful and fragrant!
Many varieties including upright, bushes, and drapes
Can even be trained as a topiary! Looks very attractive in a big clay pot on your porch or deck
Flowers are shades of blue, sometimes white or pale pink
Delicious when added to roast meats!
Seeds
Rarely done, though it is possible
Very slow to grow and cuttings are so much easier!
Transplants
From cuttings
Cuttings best taken in early summer from new growth
Don’t over move it; once rooted, transplant into its permanent bed or container
Use a well draining potting/soil mix with a little lime added when transplanting
Success with:
Dry, sunny conditions are best for rosemary
Water evenly; too much and the roots will rot; too little and growth will be stunted
Well draining soil with sand or perlite added recommended
Liquid seaweed recommended as a fertilizer
Rosemary is cool hardy but will likely need to come inside or be covered for winter (some varieties will have a second bloom during winter if brought inside!)
Harvesting
Cut off foliage anytime
Newer growth is softer and tastier
Try not to remove more than ¼ of a branch at a time
Leaves good dried or fresh
Pollinators!
Rosemary is a wonderful honey bee plant resource
Sugar concentration in nectar is between 25-63%
Upright varieties with blue flowers are especially good for bees
Visitors: many different bee species, especially honey bees and bumble bees
SAGE
Perennial
1-3ft tall
Transplants recommended
Harvest: Summer and Fall
Full sun
Min soil: 8in
Attractive and fragrant!
Mid-late summer, might send up flower stalks in colours ranging from pink, purple, blue, and white. Good for bees and look beautiful!
Flowers can be infused in a mild vinegar (like white wine) to make a delicious and magenta coloured concoction
Seeds
Tend to germinate poorly and grow very slowly
Clippings recommended
Transplants
Good choice and selection is usually excellent
Add a little sand or perlite to soil when transplanting to encourage good drainage around the roots
Success with:
Sunny spot with well drained soil is best
Don’t plant with water-loving plants or no one will be happy!
Prune back established plants in early Spring to encourage new growth
Sage can become woody and tough after a few seasons so be prepared to propagate with clippings if this happens
Harvesting
Can take the whole branch or just a few leaves
Good fresh or dry
Note on Russian Sage:
Ornamental (not edible!)
Excellent for bees! Especially honey bees, bumble bees, and wool carder bees
Prefers a dry climate
Full sun
Can grow a whopping 5ft tall
Beautiful blue to purple flowers
Makes a beautiful addition to your garden and your local bees will thank you
THYME
Perennial
6-15in tall and wide
Seeds or transplants
Harvest: summer
Full sun
Min soil: 6in
Great container plant due to relatively shallow rooting
Different varieties available
Drought tolerant
Very easy to grow!
Can over winter with a light mulch
Seeds
Start indoors in early Spring with a light potting soil
Cover seeds with a light sifting of sand
Keep warm
Seeds germinate in 1-2 weeks
Thin seedlings as needed
Once a few inches tall, safe to transplant (assuming risk of frost has passed)
Transplants
Handle the fine roots carefully
Avoid root bound pots at the garden centre
Success with
Don’t over water (blackening and drooping leaves is a sign of this)
Well draining soil mix is essential (add sand or perlite)
Prone to crown rot if watered from above so water around base of plant
To over winter in very cold areas, wrap container and cover plant, or move inside
Harvesting
Take stems as needed/wanted
Fragrant oil at peak just before flowering
Pinching off the flowers just as they develop will extend this especially fragrant period
Take ⅓ to ½ of stem when cutting; this stimulates new growth
Good dry or fresh
Pollinators!
Thyme honey is well known in Greece
Average sugar concentration in nectar is 27-45%
The honey produced is amber in colour and minty smelling
A favourite of bumble bees and honey bees!
LETTUCE/SALAD GREENS
Annuals
8-10in tall
Seeds or transplants
Full sun to partial shade
Harvest: Spring through early Summer, again in Fall
Min soil: 6in
Perfect for containers and good in ground too
More than 800 varieties of lettuce alone in the US!
Categories of lettuce/salad greens
There are 4 general categories of lettuce that give you an idea of how the plant will grow and appear at full size. This is worth considering when deciding on what will work best in your garden.
Romaine: tight heads of long, tall, crisp leaves
Butterheads: rosettes of tender leaves with a small, loose head at center
Crispheads: large, tight ball inside looser leaves (iceburg is a good example)
Loose leaf: no head, just layers of individual leaves in an overall rounded shape; best option for containers; cut and come again variety.
Seeds
Start indoors 4-5 weeks before last Spring frost date
Harden off seedlings before moving them outside
Direct sow in Spring when temps are reliably mild, especially at night
Seeds germinate readily at temps as low as 40F
For steady supply, make several sowings 2-3 weeks apart
Thin seedlings to about 6in spacing
For an Autumn harvest, sow seeds in late summer after first chilling the seeds; plant in the evening to ensure they don’t get too hot.
Transplants
Will save you a fair amount of work and usually available at nurseries
Limited varieties but enough to get a good start
Avoid any tall or leggy looking plants, or those that have unfurled into a wide shape
Success with
Keep soil evenly moist as plants will grow bitter if the soil is allowed to dry out
Cool, damp environments are best for lettuce
Hot weather will lead to bolting, aka very rapid growth that makes the plant lose flavour
If your lettuce does bolt, let it flower and then collect the seeds
Grow plants in a cool, shady part of your garden or consider a large container that you can move as needed.
Pests
Slugs are the biggest issue
Copper strips around a container will keep slugs out
For in ground plants, create a garlic-water solution to spritz around the plant to deter slugs
Epsom salts can also be sprinkled around plants to keep slugs at bay
Harvesting
Loose leaf; can ‘cut and come again’, taking outer leaves first
Other varieties: harvest the entire head of lettuce at a time
Some of my favourites varieties to try!
1/ Arugula (aka Rocket)
Sharp, peppery taste
Cut and come again type
If it bolts, leaves are still edible as are the flowers!
2/ Endive & Escarole
Bitter, biting taste so not everyone is a fan
Endive: frilly leaves with long, white stems
Escarole: basically a broad-leaved endive
Both belong to the chicory family hence the unique taste
3/ Mache (aka Lamb’s lettuce)
Popular in Europe
Mild flavour
Hardy and great for Fall sowing to harvest in early Winter!
4/ Radicchio
Brilliant red colouration
Tart taste, crisp and biting
Some varieties require a cutting back in summer for the red colour to occur as it regrows (so check what you are buying!)
LEAFY GREENS
Annuals
4-24in tall
Seeds or transplants
Full sun to partial shade
Harvest: late Spring through Winter
Min soil: 8in
Easy to grow
Produce a crop quickly
Great in containers or in the ground
High in vitamins!
A cool season vegetable grown for its leaves
Seeds
Start indoors 3-4 weeks before last Spring frost date
Or direct sow when night temps are consistently above freezing
Plant about 1/4in deep
Prepare to thin aggressively as they grow
Transplants
Saves time
Greens transplant very well
A number of varieties are often available to purchase at nurseries
Success with
Lots of water and steady fertilizing
Fish emulsion is a great option; you want a high nitrogen fertilizer for leaf growth
Keeping greens growing fast means more tender leaves to harvest
Slugs can be a problem so keep an eye out
Harvesting
Harvest when young/small for the most tender ‘baby’ leaves
Or keep growing for full size leaves
If outer leaves get very large and seem overgrown, likely too tough for us but a great treat for your chickens or livestock
For kale and collards: harvest from the crown (center of plant) to stimulate new growth
Some options!
1/ Swiss Chard
Related to beets
Tall, upright leaves on thick, succulent stems
Leaves and stalks are edible
Vitamin powerhouse!
Keeps growing from Spring until first frost
Looks and tastes good! Some varieties have hot pink, yellow, even purple stems
2/ Collards
Famous in the South!
Large plants with blue-green leaves
Closely related to kale but tolerates heat better (hence the popularity in the South)
Still grows well in cool weather so a summer planting will result in a bountiful Fall harvest
Some people think it tastes better after it has been through a frost
3/ Kale
So frilly and dark green!
Attractive enough that there are ornamental varieties (in showy pink or lavender colours)
Delicious cooked or raw
Harvest when leaves are the size of your hand; or when just a few inches tall for ‘baby’ kale
PARSNIPS
Annuals
Full sun to partial shade
loamy/sandy soil
Seeds only
Considered stubborn and hard to get going
Seeds
Must be fresh (harvested during previous season)
Need minimum temp of 46F to germinate
Prone to rotting at lower temps
Wait until soil temps are a steady 50-54F to sow
Seeds have a LONG germination period so be patient
Thin seedlings until 6-10in apart
Harvest:
Can harvest as a tender, mini veg!
Or wait until leaves have fully died back
Considered to be sweeter in taste if you leave them in ground until after the first frost
Pre-loosen soil around taproot in advance of frost to help with eventual harvest
Success with
Fresh seeds a must!
Don’t over water
Keep weeds away
If you leave them in the ground over winter, cover with a thick layer of mulch and harvest immediately when the ground thaws in Spring
Keep soil consistently moist; a layer of mulch can help with this
To boil or not to boil?
If you like to roast your parsnips, you don’t need to boil them first. That said, I think they cook better if quickly pre-boiled before going in the oven. You don’t want them to get mushy; you want to cook them just enough that they’re slightly tender. Then coat them in olive oil, salt and pepper, and set in a pan to roast. When they’re golden in colour, they are ready. Delicious!
*
Thank you so much for reading! Next week is the last part of this edible garden series, and I’ll be talking about the 3 Sisters Method, sunflowers, and pasture plants.
As always, you can find me at HomesteadHensandHoney on Instagram and Facebook; HomesteadHens on Twitter and Tumblr; and homesteadhensandhoney@gmail.com